Despite its military inspirations, Bryce Aime’s A/W collection had a definite industrial, urban and sporty feel to it. Set to pounding techno beats with strobe lighting slashing the catwalk, the streamlined and androgynous collection balanced strong structured silhouettes with softer tailoring.
Cape detailing on shoulders and short skater dresses acted as a foil to razor-sharp angles on panelled wet-look leggings and sporty biker jackets. Tailoring on jackets ranged from angular with prism shaped shoulders on fitted blazers, to curved; smoothing out shoulders and hemlines. Matte and high shine materials were juxtaposed, and sharp lines contrasted with soft fabrics of jersey, silk, wool and suede.
Unlike his S/S collection, Aime’s latest offering was as colourless as it was androgynous (he even threw in the occasional male model to emphasise the point). A pale dusky pink is the warmest shade we are afforded, as grey, black navy and silver dominate collarless jackets, dresses and super-tight leggings. Distinctive digital prints featured throughout, with the effect of ink dropped into water.
I have to admit, I’m a bigger fan of Aime’s S/S collection, which was warmer with reds, oranges and yellows punching between his black and white angular designs. Saying that, I loved his combination of black and metallic dusty pink with patent black 3D panels, as well as his inky prints and his ability to create silhouettes that are simultaneously sharp and soft.
As the pulsing soundtrack reached its crescendo, models marched the runway in crazy Perspex helmets, ending in a star-shaped prism dress jutting out from the body at all angles; a creation that would feel look at home in Gaga’s wardrobe.
Aime’s latest offering was cool and edgy but with heaps of clinging silk and Lycra, it’s probably best suited to the very skinny. One thing I wasn’t a fan of was the scarily skinny models used to for the show – yes the unforgiving skin-tight leggings required long, lean limbs, but baggy crotches on tight-ass legging is not a good look!
On reflection, that could well be why Aime used men to model his Perspex structures/outfits; some of the girls’ pipe-cleaner legs would have undoubtedly buckled under the weight. Also well, more fuel for the fire over the sub-zero model debate … at least they weren’t as bad as the corpses modeling for Erdem.
As for the clothes though, Bryce Aime’s Militariun is sexy and sporty with elements of superb structure keeping things dramatic and interesting, although the leggings won’t be for everyone.
Writer Rebelle 
